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Kraków, Warsaw and Gdańsk are the 'big three' of Polish tourism; many travellers never visit any other city in Poland. In the west, however, �ʴdz��Բ�ń beckons with plentiful museums, interesting architecture, and diverse options for dining and nightlife.

In addition, the city is steeped in deepest history, having been the nation’s first capital. Here’s how to spend a day there.

Morning

Most Polish restaurants don’t open for breakfast, but it’d be a pity to take the first meal of the day at an international fast-food chain. Instead, head for , a cool new breed of eatery with a sleek industrial interior and a breakfast menu. There’s a traditional English breakfast available but, for something less ordinary, order the smoked mackerel.

Hunger sated, head for the city’s Stary Rynek (Old Market Square), the lively heart of its beautiful Old Town. In pride of place is the graceful 16^th-century , a gleaming white structure reminiscent of a wedding cake.

Inside the Town Hall, the is worth a visit, its attractively decorated rooms housing exhibits explaining the city’s complex past. At noon, join the throng of onlookers outside the building to watch two mechanical goats butt horns above the clock, echoing an old legend.

There are several other museums – covering diverse topics – in and around the square, including the , the and the . The newest institution is the , devoted to the St Martin’s croissants associated with .

There are also historical facades to admire. The colourful make for a great snapshot, as does the impressively grand exterior of the .

If you're interested in architecture, stroll west along the length of ul Św Marcin, grabbing a coffee at hip cafe on the way.

You’ll pass communist-era modernist buildings before arriving at the grand German-era Kaiserhaus, which is now home to the culture hub . Nearby in Plac Mickiewicza is the , a stark reminder of a protest crushed under communist rule.

Afternoon

Grab lunch in the Old Town, perhaps some Jewish-Polish cuisine at or Spanish fare at . If you’re watching your budget, you can enjoy traditional Polish dishes at absurdly cheap prices at the cafeteria-style milk bar .

Then hop on a number 8 tram heading east across the Warta River, to visit the opposite (Cathedral Island). This cutting-edge museum plunges you deep into �ʴDZ����Ի�’s past, explaining �ʴdz��Բ�ń’s earliest days as a fortified settlement.

After that, cross the footbridge to the island, to enter . Dating to the 10^th century, it’s been rebuilt several times following war and disaster, and is a symbol of Polish faith and endurance. The interior is packed with reminders of the past, including ancient tombstones.

If you have time after this, catch the from the western end of Lake Malta for lakeside views. At its far terminus is the .

Evening

For dinner, a great choice is . This casual restaurant facing a park south of the Old Town serves up a limited number of items each day, generally Polish classics with a contemporary twist. For something fancier, try the French or Italian dishes of .

�ʴdz��Բ�ń has plenty of students along with visiting business people and so its entertainment options cover a wide range of budgets and styles. Live music can range from the raucous live rock of on the main square, to the smooth tunes of jazz musicians at the .

The nightclub scene is similarly varied. The has DJs offering varied sounds in a premises on the Stary Rynek, while is a more upmarket venue serving cocktails beneath chandeliers.

For a drink to finish the evening, sample �ʴDZ����Ի�’s thriving craft beer scene at , or surround yourself with communist nostalgia within the tongue-in-cheek socialist interior of . If beer’s not your thing, is a small but atmospheric bar serving dozens of Spanish wines.

Where to sleep

When it’s time for bed, �ʴdz��Բ�ń’s accommodation covers all bases. Two centrally-located budget options near the city’s nightlife are and . For a midrange room in the middle of the action, choose the combined craft brewery and hotel on the main square; for a quieter neighbourhood, stay at the elegant .

Upmarket accommodation couldn’t be more varied than these two choices: the refined with its discreet old-world charm; or the wild décor of , a hotel with gleaming angular fittings that offers 21^st -century style through and through.

Make it happen

�ʴdz��Բ�ń’s is 7km west of the city centre, connected by regular buses. There are flights from several European cities including , and .

The city is also a major rail hub, situated on the main line between Warsaw and . Trains depart from to most Polish cities and to the German capital.

Another transport option is bus. The private firm is the best option, connecting �ʴdz��Բ�ń to many Polish cities as well as Berlin and .