Nov 21, 2024 • 5 min read
Reached by an exciting cable-car ride from Almaty, ö-ö hill boasts an amusement park, picnicking opportunities and amazing mountain views. Getty Images
Fringed by the mighty Tian Shan mountains, Almaty, Kazakhstan’s largest city and onetime capital, is a terrific starting point for any adventure in this vast Central Asian country. While Kazakhstan is justly hailed for its plethora of outdoor adventures, don’t overlook the pleasures of its most bustling metropolis, which has an eclectic collection of architecture and vibrant arts scene.
Anyone who loves art, music, food and more will find more than enough here to fill a weekend – or more.
1. Picnic, dress up and ride a Ferris wheel at the top of ö-ö
ö-ö (the Green Hill) looms above the city, a go-to spot for fun with views of the urban panorama below and the snow-capped mountains beyond. At its top, you’ll find an amusement park and lots of vendors selling Kazakh handicrafts and other souvenirs. You can have your photo taken in traditional dress, catch live music on summer nights and enjoy a picnic on fair days. The whole scene feels a little touristy, sure – but it’s also just plain fun. And you won’t solely be surrounded by tourists, for the hill is wildly popular with locals, too. A highlight of any excursion here is the cable-car ride up, which costs 5000 tenge ($10.40) round-trip.
2. Eat like a Kazakh by digging into a plate of horsemeat
While it might not rival southern Shymkent as a center of traditional cuisine, Almaty has the most international food scene in the country, as well as plenty of worthy places for trying national dishes. The most common type of restaurant in Almaty are spots serving shashlik, skewered meat on the grill. For a special meal where you might try beshbarmak, the famous Kazakh specialty of horsemeat and flat noodles, check out on ö-ö, or , an upscale chain.
3. Check out Central Asia’s liveliest club scene
Want to party with the socialites of Central Asia? Almaty is where you’ll find them. is known for its wild DJ sets, while the younger crowd favors the straightforwardly named . For those who want to party past the break of dawn, has after parties that last until 8am on Saturday.
4. Get lashed with oak leaves at Arasan Baths
After a day out on the town, a hiking or skiing excursion in nearby Shymbulak, or simply as a way to kick off your journey in Kazakhstan, visit the Arasan Baths. In the city center, this imposing ’70s-era bathhouse combines traditional Central Asian bath-house features with high–Soviet Modernist design.
Plan to stay for 2 hours as you work your way through the Finnish sauna, Russian banya, and Moroccan and Turkish hammam (steam rooms). You can stay longer by booking a massage or traditional veniki (beating with oak leaves). Access starts at 1500–2000 tenge (US$3–4) per hour, with extra for add-ons like massages or sandal and towel rentals.
5. Consider Russian and Soviet history at Panfilov Park
In the center of the city, Panfilov Park is Almaty’s most popular green space. Dating back to the 19th century, the elegant park is laid out around the yellow, fairy-tale-like Ascension (or Zenkov) Cathedral, which stands at its center. Today, many of the park’s monuments – such as the monument to Ivan Panfilov, to whom the park is dedicated; an eternal flame commemorating fallen heroes; and a smattering of Soviet-era tanks and artillery – present a visual representation of Soviet military culture.
6. Enjoy a dose of culture at top-notch museums
Immerse yourself in Kazakh history at the Central State Museum – from prehistoric artifacts to traditional carved balbal columns to stunning gold adornments. While not all exhibit texts are in English, many of these distinctive objects speak for themselves. The Kazakhstan Museum of Arts has by far the world’s largest collection of Kazakh art, in particular a fascinating collection of work by Soviet-realist painter Abylkhan Kasteev (1904–73). The , which reopens in January 2025 after a renovation, is where to go to see work by new and exciting Kazakh artists.
7. Haggle for groceries at the Green Market
If you’re in Central Asia, a visit to the bazaar is a must – and Almaty’s most central and most beautiful is the bustling Green Market. Here, you can do your grocery shopping, discover herbs from the Kazakh mountains, stock up on teas from China and much more. Dried fruits and nuts from neighboring Uzbekistan are abundant as well.
Don’t miss the dairy section, where you’ll find tables selling kurut, the salty cheese that keeps shepherds on horseback from feeling peckish as they ride across the vast steppe. (We’ve heard the delicacy also pairs well with local vodka.)
Planning tip: Don’t be afraid to haggle on prices at the bazaar. It’s a cultural expectation.
8. Take to the slopes of Shymbulak…
The spectacular Tian Shan mountains loom over Almaty – which makes the ski resort of just a 20-minute ride from the center of town. Winter visitors can ski around 20km (12.5 miles) of runs, with eight lifts to get you up the mountain. It’s possible to rent both skis and ski clothes on site.
The resort is also a great summer destination, with lots of hiking trails, a few mountain restaurants and horseback-riding excursions.
Planning tip: Every half hour, bus number 12 leaves the city center to the Medeu ice rink. From here, you can grab the lift up to the resort.
9. …or take to the ice at Medeu
Lace up a pair of ice skates and trace a few figure eights on the world’s highest skating rink. Once an important training center for ice skaters thanks to the benefits of practice at high altitudes, the is also a quick ride from town.
More than 200 speed records have been set on this ice, with the crisp and cold air said to contribute to its great conditions. The rink is open all year; skating in the summer runs 1500 tenge (US$3) per hour and 2400 tenge (US$5) per hour in winter. Skate rentals are typically about 1000 tenge (US$2).
Detour: Nearby is the famous, stamina-building, 842-step “Health Ladder,” atop which a magnificent view of the mountains awaits.
10. Attend a concert in a Soviet-era palace
Built in the ’70s, the imposing Palace of the Republic is Almaty’s main concert hall and a great place to catch a Kazakh folk or classical-music performance. Built to host party meetings and union rallies as well as concerts, today it also serves as a venue for conferences and other gatherings. In the summer, outdoor festivals such as the spill out of the palace and into the square.
Alternatively, try to get tickets for a concert at the , a venue with a cozier, more classic vibe.
Local tip: The off Panfilov Square occasionally organizes traditional music concerts as well.
11. Catch an Uyghur-language performance
If you prefer your performing arts with some lively staging, don’t miss a performance at the . Shows range from contemporary plays and musical comedies to classic dramas, all performed in the Uyghur language. While you may not follow everything, you’ll be in for a memorable experience indeed.
Planning tip: The Uyghur people represent an important minority in Almaty since the 1800s. On Yassawi St in the neighborhood of Druzhba, you can find many restaurants serving Uighur lagman, a hearty dish of noodles, meat and veggies.
12. Admire all the street art
Architecturally, Almaty offers many surprises: towering domes, Soviet apartment blocks and glittering skyscrapers. Adorning many of these buildings is a range of street art, which isn’t to be missed; the Golden Quarter is the center of the scene. While large-scale murals were a staple of Soviet city planning, a new breed of artist has taken up the tradition in the past 15 years or so. Designs incorporating nomadic motifs and Central Asian animals are common – with more –subversive themes popping up from time to time, like messages hidden in ancient glyphs.
Planning tip: offers excellent street-art tours – expertise well worth the price.
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