First-time Chicago: a starter guide to the Windy City
Jan 19, 2018 鈥 7 min read
USA, Illinois, Chicago, view to Trump Tower from below
Take revolutionary architecture, award-winning cuisine, an outsized musical legacy and top-flight museums, and wrap them all up in an easy-to-navigate package. Now throw in a population of locals at once cosmopolitan and brimming with Midwestern good humor. That鈥檚 Chicago, a city that will roll out the welcome mat and keep you engaged whether you plan to stay a night or a month.
These local picks will guarantee a great first impression of the Second City.
Get to know a few giants
The near-total annihilation of Chicago鈥檚 streetscape in the Great Fire of 1871 was a disaster with a happy ending: it left a blank slate upon which the country鈥檚 most visionary builders 鈥 like father of the skyscraper Louis Sullivan and Prairie School founder Frank Lloyd Wright 鈥 could conceive a modern, uniquely American architectural vernacular. The fruits of their labor continue to stand sentry around the Loop and beyond, mingling with masterworks from more recent innovators like Mies van der Rohe and Jeanne Gang.
One of the most efficient 鈥 and enjoyable 鈥 ways to orient yourself in both the city鈥檚 layout and its history is with an architectural tour. The engaging and knowledgeable docents of the Chicago Architecture Foundation put on the city鈥檚 best. The organization鈥檚 eternally popular river cruise is a good option for a general overview, while an assortment of walking tours offer deep dives into topics like Art Deco-era skyscrapers and Tiffany design embellishments.
Hood hop while you shop
With its sprawling department stores, the Michigan Avenue retail district 鈥 first port of call for many visitors 鈥 may be magnificent, but you鈥檙e unlikely to rub elbows with the natives there. For a taste of the city as everyday Chicagoans experience it, you鈥檒l have to make your way to the vibrant neighborhoods that radiate outward from the Loop. And there鈥檚 perhaps no better way to read an area鈥檚 aura than to browse its shops.
Heaven for hipster types, Wicker Park brims with gems like vinyl superstore and , a self-described modern general store stocking ceramics and minimalist jewelry worthy of a Kinfolk spread. Queer-friendly Andersonville is the place to go for stylish vintage shopping with a side of quirk; pick up an old-school college pennant or a tartan throw for your preppy friend at and score that taxidermy armadillo you never knew you needed at twisted Woolly Mammoth.
The vibe along Lincoln Park鈥檚 Armitage Avenue trends toward the tony. Stock up on locally made sweets spiked with unexpected ingredients like wasabi and coconut ash at posh chocolatier , and browse copper-stemmed champagne coupes and irreverent letterpress cards at .
Book lovers should venture south to Hyde Park for a slow amble through warren-like 57th Street Books or, for the brainiest readers, 57th Street鈥檚 academically inclined sister store, the Seminary Co-Op.
Join the culture club
Mummies and T. Rex at the Field Museum, masterpieces by Georges Seurat and Georgia O'Keeffe at the Art Institute, flight simulators and model railroads at the Museum of Science and Industry: whatever floats your boat, Chicago鈥檚 got a world-class museum for you. For maximum enjoyment, bear in mind that an in-depth exploration of these signature cultural institutions demands half a day or longer; attempting more than one in a day is a surefire recipe for gallery fatigue.
For a quirkier cultural experience, drop into one of the niche museums and galleries sprinkled throughout the city. Music lovers, boogie on down to the South Side to probe the enduring legacy of legendary blues label Chess Records at Willie Dixon鈥檚 Blues Heaven and marvel at house music pioneer Frankie Knuckles鈥 vinyl collection at the Stony Island Arts Bank. With interactive exhibits on sports forensics, curses and the Cubs鈥 historic 2016 World Series win, the Chicago Sports Museum will score big with supporters of the city鈥檚 teams. In West Town, the Ukrainian Institute of Modern Art offers a window into Ukraine past and present via works from its citizens and diaspora.
Dig into Chicago鈥檚 local dining delights
Whether you favor highbrow spots or budget-friendly ones, worldly flavors or all-American tastes, you鈥檙e in for a treat: Chicago鈥檚 dining game is one of the best in the US. The multicourse molecular gastronomy antics at Alinea, the madcap culinary lab of modern chef royalty Grant Achatz, are all the entertainment you鈥檒l need of an evening, but if the price tag sends you into a cold sweat, head to the West Loop 鈥 the city鈥檚 "it" dining district 鈥 to sample a slightly-humbler version of Achatz鈥檚 fare (think fried chicken and cheddar rillettes) at Roister. Another West Loop notable, Paul Kahan, puts out refined Midwest-inspired plates at Blackbird, but if you鈥檙e not in the mood to linger over dinner, you can pop into Kahan鈥檚 butcher shop-meets-cafe Publican Quality Meats for a quick chicken parm or a restorative bowl of ribollita soup.
Chicago boasts flavors as diverse as its population. The local eminence grise of upscale Mexican cooking is Rick Bayless, whose Topolobampo offers an elegant take on pre-Columbian cuisine. Far less formal 鈥 but every bit as delicious 鈥 is , a snug, cheerful corner store in the Little Village neighborhood that happens to griddle up some of the city鈥檚 best tacos. Pilsen鈥檚 is a critical darling for its polished interpretations of Vietnamese classics, while the colossal bowls of soul-soothing pho ladled out along Argyle Street in Uptown make for one of the city鈥檚 most satisfying 鈥 and affordable 鈥 meals.
If post-meal naps rate highly on your travel to-do list, consider bunking up at one of the city鈥檚 many accommodation options with exciting in-house dining options. The lobby of the West Loop鈥檚 sleek, minimalist is anchored by chef Jason Vincent鈥檚 , where unpretentious but excellent fare 鈥 think service station-inspired breakfast sandwiches and fried caviar-cheddar 鈥渟hooters鈥 鈥 sets a playful tone. In Logan Square, boho B&B Longman & Eagle offers a handful of rooms in which to sleep it off after indulging in the first-floor tavern鈥檚 hearty comfort dishes and lengthy whiskey list.
Don鈥檛 forget to save room for one of the city鈥檚 gut-busting culinary icons, like the umami bomb beef sandwich at frill-free Mr. Beef, pan pizza at Lincoln Park institution 笔别辩耻辞诲鈥檚, and technicolor Chicago style hot dogs at local favorite .
Drink up and get down
The city鈥檚 craft beer scene has hit the stratosphere in recent years, with new breweries popping up seemingly every week and even the most unassuming bars curating homegrown brew lists. Beloved local label took its brand to the next level when it launched its sprawling Balmoral tap room and brewery in 2017. South Side beer geeks swoon over the selection at Bridgeport boozer 惭补谤颈补鈥檚.
Cocktail aficionados will mix well in Logan Square, home to quirky takes on classic concoctions at Billy Sunday, tongue-in-cheek tiki libations at Lost Lake and whimsically named sippers at bar-meets-gallery . Worlds apart in vibe but only 20 minutes away by cab, historically German Lincoln Square projects an easygoing Old World ambience; hit Huettenbar or for comically large steins of weiss and altbier.
If you prefer to take your hooch with a side of entertainment, venues of all stripes abound. With its ultra-divey vibe and lineup of good-time DJs and catch-鈥檈m-before-they鈥檙e-famous indie bands, the come-one-come-all Hideout is the place to let your hair down and dance your socks off, while scruffy, long-running Rosa鈥檚 Lounge is a hype-free spot to soak up the best in Chicago blues.
Stop and smell the flowers
Perhaps the Windy City moniker is to blame, but Chicago鈥檚 outdoors appeal is seriously underrated. It鈥檚 possible to head out into the fresh air just about any day of the year here. Mild spring and fall weather is perfect for hopping on a and hitting the 18-mile lakefront trail or the 606, a disused railway line-turned-elevated park that links up trendy cafes and eateries (and some excellent day-drinking spots, if you鈥檙e feeling so bold). Summer brings season 鈥 and if sunbathing beside a lake seems strange, just consider the blissful lack of potential Jaws scenarios. Come winter, layer up and take a spin around the ice skating ribbon at Maggie Daley Park.
Practicalities
With eight lines that cut both overhead and underground paths across the city, the (or El, as it鈥檚 known by locals) is one of the quickest and most affordable ways to get around perpetually traffic-clogged Chicago; as a bonus, some lines offer breathtaking views. Most fares clock in at $2.50 (additional rides within two hours will cost you a quarter); the 45-minute Blue Line journey in from O鈥橦are Airport is $5. Buy your ticket 鈥 or a rechargeable Ventra card, if you anticipate multiple rides 鈥 at vending machines found in stations.
Admission to Chicago鈥檚 most popular museums and cultural attractions like the Shedd Aquarium, the Art Institute, and the Willis Tower Skydeck isn鈥檛 cheap; if you plan to visit more than two, shelling out for the 鈥 which includes admission to 7 major attractions, as well as perks like fast-track entry 鈥 can be a worthy investment.