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Despite its infamous seven hills (it doesn’t matter which way you turn, you’ll always be going uphill), Edinburgh is a very walkable city. Scotland’s capital city is by no means its biggest, but and its metropolitan feel – so many characterful neighborhoods, busy streets and things to do – and compact size mean you can take a short stroll and get a sense of its diversity and vibrancy within minutes.

Another distinctive feature about Edinburgh is there is an extinct volcano right in the middle of it. I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Arthur’s Seat, Edinburgh’s extraordinary geological landmark that sits at the center of Holyrood Park and looms over the rest of the city with an ancient grace. And while lots of people just take a walk just around the hill or, god forbid, up it, I love using it as a transition space between Edinburgh’s north and south neighborhoods.

So with that in mind, let’s start on Easter Road, the famous Leith Walk’s more lowkey sister, running just parallel in the north of the city. This is a real locals' neighborhood, lined with Edinburgh’s characteristic Victorian tenement flats and plenty of independent cafes and dinky shops. Stop at for a coffee and a perfectly laminated pastry, and then head south towards Abbeyhill. Cross London Road, cut up the violently steep Abbey Mount (what did I tell you), and through the semi-industrial, semi-pastoral shortcut of Croft-An-Righ.

Coming out the other side you should get your first glimpse of Arthur’s Seat and it’s a doozy, all sharp crags, barbed gorse and impossible wilderness in the heart of the city. Head towards it and then take Queen’s Drive round to the south (although go up the opposite way for a minute for a quick peek at St Margaret’s Loch and its resident grumpy swans). It’s a majestic walk with the sheer hill face on one side and stacks of flats on the other, a clash of ancient and modern that undergirds Edinburgh’s entire charm.

Soon on your right you’ll glimpse a path and steps leading sharply upwards through the trees. Say goodbye to the volcanic phase of your walk and head up to Edinburgh’s Southside, a vibey student neighborhood which houses both the University of Edinburgh and the . Walk down St Leonard’s Lane, left down St Leonard’s Street and straight down Bernard Terrace and Hope Park Terrace to find yourself at , Edinburgh’s coolest arts venue. The university’s old veterinary school has been transformed into a multipurpose hub, with some of the Fringe’s best shows in August and excellent music, theater and exhibitions all year round. Pop your head into their wee galleries for some experimental art and then head to at the back of the courtyard for a well-deserved pint, chips and lots of old veterinary paraphernalia.

Once you’re rested, head out of Summerhall and down towards , the city’s queer radical bookshop. Browse the shelves, say hello to their dog Artemis, and pick up more literary treats than you really should. From here, you can follow Chapel Street down to the , an incredible contemporary art gallery set in beautiful Old College Quad, or to across the road, a hallucinatory bar with excellent vegan food and stuffed toys hanging from the ceiling, for another well-deserved rest.