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I have known Guadalajara my whole life, traveling here to visit extended family since the year I was born.

As a little girl, it was a place of orange-flavored sodas and chili-covered lollipops, mariachi serenades for my 20-something ��í���� (balcony swooning included) and hours spent making tortillas. The city’s historic center was a place to run and play, to cool off in the Cathedral or under a mural in Hospicio Cabañas, to fill up on chocolate-stuffed cuernos from our favorite bakery.

When I began visiting with my American friends, I started to see Guadalajara through different eyes and appreciate its depth and complexity. It’s a richly colonial city wrapped in a modern metropolis, complete with traffic jams, pickpockets and bustle. A place steeped in tradition yet standing for inclusion. A city where a night out could include world-class cuisine or bacon-wrapped hot dogs, a symphony concert or a raucous lucha libre match.

Guadalajara remains all of this, past and present (chili-covered lollipops included). Here are a few tips to help you make the most out of it.

1. Plan on (at least) a 4-day stay

Sure, you can see Guadalajara’s highlights in a couple of days – most are concentrated in the historic center – but a longer trip gives you time to check out the city’s colonial-to-hipster neighborhoods, wander through dazzling art museums and outdoor markets, take in some live music and maybe even find your favorite late-night taco stand. Check out the tourism office’s , a comprehensive calendar of events, before you head to town.

2. Book early for October

The city brims with visitors every October when Guadalajara hosts , a month-long celebration featuring spectacular live performances, pop-up amusement parks and parades. A longstanding annual pilgrimage to the Basílica de Zapopan draws millions more: devout Catholics who hit the streets in honor of the venerated icon La Zapopanita. Book your hotel early.

3. Bring layers (and sometimes an umbrella)

Guadalajara is known for its pleasant daytime temperatures, hovering in the 70s and 80s year-round. Evenings are another story, however. In winter, bring warm clothing and a jacket for the sometimes frigid air. In summer, a light sweater will do. Add an umbrella to your summer packing list, especially in July and August, when afternoon showers are a daily occurrence.

4. Make sure your stay includes a Sunday

Sundays are for vibrant local culture in Guadalajara: plazas bustle with street vendors and performers, major streets close to cars to make room for walkers and bikers (free bikes are available at Parque Revolución), and the city’s largest open-air crafts market fills the streets of Tonalá. For a treat, take in an afternoon charreada or lucha libre match.

5. Don’t rent a car

There’s no need to rent a car in Guadalajara – the traffic can be crushing, and walking is often the quickest option. For places further afield, several bus lines and a crisscross the city for cheap (M$9.50-15); use the to navigate your way around town. For more comfort, is an easy, affordable option.

6. Save pesos by taking the bus to and from the airport

The cheapest ride to and from Guadalajara’s international airport is by city bus. It can get crowded and makes frequent stops, but it’s a steal at less than US$1 a ride. Look for the bus stop in front of the Hotel Casa Grande, 50m (164ft) from the terminal, and catch either a “Ruta 176” or “Atasa” bus. Both run to the center of town in about 45 minutes, with frequencies every 15 minutes morning until night.

7. Call locals �ٲ��貹��í�Dz�

Be in the know and use �ٲ��貹��í�� to refer to someone or something from Guadalajara. The word is derived from tlapatiotl, meaning “bartering system” in Nahuatl, the language spoken by the region’s original inhabitants.

8. Greet people

�ղ��貹��í�Dz� (and Mexicans in general) value pleasantries. Before any interaction – even just entering a shop or restaurant – say “buenos dias” (good morning), “buenas tardes” (good afternoon) or “buenas noches” (good evening). When you leave, “adios” (goodbye), “gracias” (thank you) or “con permiso” (excuse me) is customary. Even if that’s the extent of your Spanish conversation, it’ll be deeply appreciated.

9. This Catholic city isn’t as conservative as you’d expect

Despite its history and reputation as a deeply Catholic city, Guadalajara is also one of the most accepting and inclusive places in Mexico for LGBTIQ+ people. Embrace the city’s annual Pride event, gay bars, queer-owned businesses and cultural events.

10. Save your shorts and flip-flops for the beach

Unless you’re a kid, wearing shorts or flip-flops will mark you as a tourist in Guadalajara. Even on the hottest days, adults just don’t wear such casual pieces outside their homes. Stick to pants or skirts and wear leather sandals or closed-toe shoes instead. For a night out on the town, dress to impress.

11. Don’t be shy on the bus

If you’re on a bus without a functioning bell pull (it happens), yell out “bajan!”(BA-hahn; it means “getting off”). This will signal the driver to stop at the nearest intersection.

12. Lean into street food

Guadalajara’s early morning street food fave (and sworn-by hangover cure) is the torta ahogada (literally “drowned sandwich”), a baguette-like roll stuffed with slow-roasted pork and drenched in hot sauce. While you’ll be tempted to eat this huge creation with a fork and knife, �ٲ��貹��í�Dz� use their hands – so do like locals do and lean over your plate, like it’s a trough, to avoid splattering yourself. Go the extra mile and tuck a few napkins into your shirt front. It’s not exactly elegant, but you’ll fit right in.

13. Haggle with kindness

Negotiating prices, especially in markets, is common practice in Guadalajara. Prices will shift slightly, or the merchant might throw in a knick-knack. But before you dig in your heels over a few pesos, remember they likely mean a lot more to the vendor than they do to you.

14. Put TP in the wastebasket

Antiquated plumbing in Guadalajara means that flushing toilet paper can often clog the system. If you see an open waste basket in a stall or hotel bathroom, use it for your TP.

15. Avoid tap water

While Guadalajara’s tap water is purified at the source, it can become contaminated as it travels through aging water lines. So don’t drink it or even use it to brush your teeth; stick to bottled water. That said, there’s no need to worry about ice in restaurants or bars – here, it’s purchased from commercial ice factories.

16. Opt for Uber over taxis

Though taxis are easy to hail in the city center, they’re known for ripping off passengers, refusing to use their meters and quoting inflated flat rates. Use Uber instead, which provides reliable service at cheaper rates. If you must take a cab, be sure you agree on the price before you get in. If it seems high, try bargaining or just wait for another taxi.

17. Stay alert for pickpockets

Like most big cities, pickpocketing is a risk on crowded buses and subway trains, markets and busy streets and plazas. Mercado San Juan de Dios and the post-clubbing scene on Avenida Chapultepec are notorious for petty theft. Stay alert to your surroundings, remembering that pickpockets often work in teams, crowding their victims to distract them. To lessen the risk of being targeted, leave flashy jewelry at home and stow your valuables in the hotel safe.

18. Avoid fringe neighborhoods

Violent crimes aren’t prominent in Guadalajara, especially in the areas that draw visitors. Still, we’d recommend you avoid avoid wandering into fringe neighborhoods on the east side – Colonia Jalisco and Santa Fe in particular are known for their gang activity.

19. For help, contact your consulate

If you’re a victim of crime, need medical assistance or legal help, contact your consulate or embassy. Almost 50 countries, including the and, have representatives in Guadalajara who can help you navigate the system or recommend care options.