The approach to steep-walled Moremi Gorge gives little hint of what lies ahead. Once within the site, with its sheer beauty and abundant birdlife (with Cape vultures wheeling overhead or perched at their nesting sites high on the cliffs), watch for small ancestral shrines in rocky clefts and the signposted boulder that fell to the valley floor on the day that Botswana’s president, Sir Seretse Khama, died on 13 July 1980.