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Regulars come to this charming 60-plus-year-old shop for fresh soy milk, pan-fried tofu and sweet tofu pudding (HK$12), made the traditional way from beans ground with a hand-operated millstone. The silky tofu has nutty notes, and the hue is off-white – reassuringly imperfect.

The recently opened expansion right next door sells the same stuff, with more seating.