Yung Shue Wan (Banyan Tree Bay), with some 6000 inhabitants, may be close to the largest settlement on the island, but it remains a small village with little more than a car-free main street following the curve of the bay. Despite encroaching development, the village has somehow managed to retain more than a whiff of rustic charm. The main street is lined with cafes, bars, veggie stalls and new-age shops, all popular with locals and tourists alike.
At the southern end of the bay, look for a small Tin Hau Temple dating from the late 19th century, with a pair of eccentric Western lion statues guarding the entrance.