The vast Shi Family Residence, 20km west of Tianijn, is an intriguing warren of courtyards and enclosed gardens. Formerly belonging to a prosperous merchant family, the restored residence (originally built in 1875) contains a theatre and 278 rooms, some of which are furnished. It's the centrepiece of the recently spruced up Yangliuqing Ancient Town, a former canal-side market town that's been opened up for tourists. Take bus 824 (?3, one hour) from Tianjin Train Station.