The stones of the abandoned Binchester Roman Fort were often reused, and Roman inscriptions can be spotted in the walls of the hauntingly beautiful Escomb Church. The church dates from the 7th century – it's one of only three complete surviving Saxon churches in Britain. The whitewashed cell, striking and moving in its simplicity, is incongruously encircled by 20th-century housing. If no one's about, collect the keys from 28 Saxon Green. It's 14 miles southwest of Durham; you'll need your own wheels.