Begun in 1262 by the Troyes-born Pope Urban IV, whose father’s shoemaker shop once stood on this spot, this church is exuberantly Gothic both inside and out, and has some fine 13th-century stained glass. In the chapel off the south transept arm is La Vierge au Raisin (Virgin with Grapes), a graceful, early-15th-century stone statue of Mary and the Christ child.