If you aren't hooked by the smell of pungent cheese, you'll be attracted by the rows of saucisson sec (salami) at this terrific hole-in-the-wall deli, where you can try before you buy. Fromage has a regional focus, including unpasteurised Munster and Tomme, and the salamis are something special, too – pheasant, wild boar, venison, you name it.