Stroll along the rampart walkway to the harbour, where luxury yachts jostle for the limelight with Nomade (2010), an 8m-tall sculpture of a man looking out to sea. The work of Catalan artist Jaume Plensa, the mirage-like piece is built from thousands of white letters and is lit at night – a magnificent sight. It squats on the terrace of the Bastion St-Jaume, the former site of a Roman temple, a 17th-century fortified tower and, until 1985, a shipyard.