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Paleokastro & Nestor's Cave

Messinia


The ruins of this ancient castle, which the Franks built in the 13th century on the site of the acropolis of Ancient Pylos, lie 5km west of Gialova on rugged Koryphasion Hill, a formidable natural defensive position overlooking the northern entrance to Navarino Bay.

The castle (officially closed) can be explored, but with care; avoid falling down cisterns hidden by overgrowth. The views from the top are magnificent. The road to the castle is signposted on the northern edge of Gialova.

Follow signs to Paleokastro, where the road ends in a little car park. From there you'll find two ways of reaching the castle: the left-hand path (20 minutes) skirts Koryphasion Hill and gradually leads up to the entrance. The other route (40 minutes) is signposted 'Nestor's Cave': the path (officially closed) skirts the lagoon before leading towards Voidokilia Beach through the sand dunes; a fork in the path leads up towards atmospheric, bat-heavy Nestor's Cave where, according to legend, Hermes hid Apollo's cattle. From the cave, it's a tough scramble up to the castle's crumbling battlements, rewarded by views of the perfect crescent of Voidokilia Beach. Combining the two routes makes a great loop.