On Ioannina's idyllic island, the monastery where Ali Pasha made his last stand (or recline, really) in 1822 is now a small, cheerfully morbid museum, highlighting the bullet holes in the floorboards. Also on display are various personal effects and etchings of the portly Pasha in full repose, sitting fat and happy with his favourite consort. To get there, walk up the hill from the dock, then bear left in the first square.