With only four tables, a narrow back-alley location, no real signage (you enter via the town's best gourmet deli/salumeria) and a 90-minute daily opening window, this perplexingly stuffy osteria feels like a real find. It's an iconic spot to try regional specialities like cotechino fritto con zabaglione al lambrusco (fried Modena sausage with wine-flavoured egg custard). Booking essential.