Homemade Modenese miracles are forged in this low-key dining room spread with tortelloni-yellow tablecloths and hung with jerseys and racing-car photos. A mere €7 gets you an ample-sized appetiser of parmigiano and salumi (cold cuts) with Modena's famed vinegar. Make sure to save room for the divine pumpkin-stuffed ravioli, ricotta-filled tortellini, and scrumptious secondi.