In the heart of Parma's animated Strada Farini drinking scene is this classy but friendly wine bar run by a personable ex-rugby player. In warm weather, aficionados crowd the street out front, sipping fine vintages by the glass (€4 to €8) at barrels draped with tablecloths. For some fine people-watching, grab one of the pavement tables tucked across the street on Borgo della Salina.