This modern tavern run by hip young owners sits on one of the least attractive piazzas in all of Italy; inside, however, is a different story. Daily-changing verbal lunch menus for €12 are a steal (water, wine, main course, dessert and coffee); you might see guanciale, smoked duck and pear risotto or a pisarei pasta preparation.
For dinner, the à la carte menu skews traditional but innovative. Book ahead.