The cheerily cluttered interior of this excellent trattoria is papered with photos of smiley diners, obviously put in the best mood by dishes like orecchiette scure con cacioricotta pomodoro e rucola ('little ears' pasta with cheese, tomato and arugula). Wash it down with the surprisingly drinkable house wine, only €5 a litre. It won't add much to an invariably reasonable bill.