For dreamy sunset views of Isola Tavolara, book ahead at chic waterfront Il Portolano, run by Sardinian-Swiss couple Roberto and Claudia. Creatively prepared Mediterranean seafood is the star attraction, from octopus salad with fresh artichokes and Cabras bottarga to homemade lemon pasta with sea bass, almonds and courgette pesto – all beautifully complemented by island wines and tempting desserts such as mandarin-Campari sorbet.