Locals love upmarket Tartarun, which offers a more sophisticated take on all things fishy. Dishes such as sea bream, roasted prawn and cherry tomatoes are perfectly executed. The 'fish snacks' menu (€4 to €13) is a good option for a leisurely lunch of shared tapas-style plates. Try the swordfish tataki. There are a few outside tables, though they're somewhat traffic-plagued on Sunday.