Zagora’s desert-crossroads culture can be glimpsed in the neighbouring village of Amezrou, where the historic mud-brick mellah (Jewish quarter), once home to around 400 Jewish households, is part crumbling, part restored. Along its labyrinthine alleyways you can peek inside a small rammed-earth synagogue (Dh10), watch builders at work up ramshackle ladders and meet the artisans soldering metal good-luck charms with Amazigh (Berber), African, Jewish and Muslim designs. A local will offer to show you the sights (tip Dh50).