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This is not a meal to be taken lightly: firstly, you'll need to book many months in advance, and secondly, there will, for most of us, be the indenting of funds. But go if you can, not for the three Michelin stars and other accolades but for Esben Holmboe Bang's 20 or so courses that are one of the world's most potent culinary experiences and a sensual articulation of what it means to be Norwegian.

You'll share your meal with only a handful of other diners, either upstairs at the six-person chef's table, or downstairs in the glass-and-steel dining room, which has eight tables below the dreamlike, Norse-mythology-conjuring photos of Christian Houge. Service and wine are, as you'd imagine, flawless. Wine pairings are 1800kr, or you can do juice pairing for 950kr.


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