A peaceful retreat from the nearby Rua Nova do Carvalho mayhem, Tosca is an enticing spot for Portuguese tapas and bold Douro reds (but don't be afraid to spring for a pitcher of fabulous port sangria). Open-air seating is on leafy Praça São Paulo in front, opposite an 18th-century church, making it feel like a hidden Lisbon highlight.
The owners have opened the more bar-oriented Mercearia Tosca next door. If you aren't planning to eat, head there instead as we received some food-order pressure on our visit.