Fado drifts up the azulejo-clad walls, toddlers tear through the dining room, plump and oily sardines (and other fresh fish) are roasted on sidewalk grills, and you can almost smell the tart snap of vinho verde (young wine) in the air. There’s much to love in this forever-packed, salt-of-the-earth local seafood house. It’s located one block inland from the ferry pier.