This lively, unpretentious place started as a pop-up and retains its no-frills vibe with no bookings and cash-only payments. The food, served in steaming cardboard boxes at crammed communal tables, is exceptional – aromatic curries, caramelised sticky pork with sesame, nam pla and palm sugar, and king-size ‘bubble prawns’ in grated coconut-beer batter. Service can be brusque.