Satara – the second-largest option after Skukuza – may lack the riverside views of other camps, but it's optimally situated in the heart of 'big cat' territory, with open plains making viewing easier. When it's busy, it feels like the antithesis of wilderness, but it's still a good base.
Rustic Kitchen (mains R42 to R155) has taken over the restaurant here – the food's fine, and there's a well-stocked shop for those self-catering. Both baboons and honey badgers are considered problem animals in the camp – don't leave any food lying around. We also saw an African wild cat within the rest camp's fence.