A Buddhist hermitage with a 1350-year heritage, Hyangir-am has an enviable location perched halfway up a mountain at the tip of Dolsando, an island connected to Yeosu by a bridge. It's stunning anytime of day, but is most enchanting at sunrise, when you can watch daybreak over the ocean while listening to the monks chant. Buses (one hour; â‚©1200) to Hyangir-am start around 4.30am to arrive in time for first light; pick up a schedule at the TIC.
It’s a steep 10-minute walk from the bus stop through the tourist village up to the temple. Every restaurant along the way sells gatkimchi (갓김치; pickled mustard leaves), a local speciality. There are also some pensions and minbak if you’re inclined to stay overnight.
Buses (â‚©1200, one hour) run from outside Jinnamgwan to Hyangiram.