Countless snack stalls and souvenir shops line the narrow 'old street' threading through Jiufen, a mining town so prosperous it became known as 'Little Shanghai' in the 1930s. Hugely popular, the street can become intolerably crowded by the afternoon, so plan accordingly. Shuqi St, with its famously steep steps, Japanese-era theatre and teahouses, intersects a few hundred metres along Jishan St.
Grazing on local snacks is de rigueur here. Look for yùyuán (芋圓; taro balls), yúwán (魚丸; fish balls), cǎozǐ gāo (草仔糕; herbal cakes) and hēitáng gāo (黑糖糕; molasses cake). If the crowds get too much, you can take refuge in a tea house.
Jishan St begins beside the 7-Eleven on the main road.