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Wat Arun temple in Bangkok during sunset.

漏Anek S/500px

Wat Arun

Top choice in Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi


Wat Arun is the missile-shaped temple that rises from the Chao Phraya River's banks. Known as Temple of Dawn, it was named after the Indian god of dawn, Arun. It was here that, after the destruction of Ayuthaya, King Taksin stumbled upon a small local shrine and interpreted the discovery as an auspicious sign that this should be the site of the new capital of Siam.

Today the temple is one of Bangkok's most iconic structures 鈥 not to mention one of the few Buddhist temples you are encouraged to climb on.

It wasn't until the capital and the Emerald Buddha were moved to Bangkok that Wat Arun received its most prominent characteristic: the 82m-high 镁谤补丑苍驳 (Khmer-style tower). The tower's construction was started during the first half of the 19th century by Rama II (King Phraphutthaloetla Naphalai; r 1809鈥24) and later completed by Rama III (King Phranangklao; r 1824鈥51).

Steep stairs lead to the top, from where there are amazing views of the Chao Phraya River. Not apparent from a distance are the fabulously ornate floral mosaics made from broken, multihued Chinese porcelain, a common temple ornamentation in the early Ratanakosin period, when Chinese ships calling at the port of Bangkok discarded tons of old porcelain as ballast.

The main Buddha image at the temple is said to have been designed by Rama II himself. The murals date from the reign of Rama V (King Chulalongkorn; r 1868鈥1910); particularly impressive is one that depicts Prince Siddhartha encountering examples of birth, old age, sickness and death outside his palace walls, an experience that led him to abandon the worldly life. The ashes of Rama II are interred in the base of the presiding Buddha image.

Looking from the bottom of the steps which lead up to the 82m-high 镁谤补丑苍驳 at Wat Arun, Bangkok.
There has been a temple on the grounds of Wat Arun since at least the 16th century. 漏e X p o s e/Shutterstock

History

There has been a temple on the site of Wat Arun from at least the late 16th century. Historians believe Wat Makok, as it was originally known, was founded on the bank of Khlong Lat, but it wasn't until 1767, when King Taksin聽came across the temple, that it took on any real historical significance.

King Taksin, who came across the site at sunrise whilst fleeing Burmese invaders, made the site his palace temple and renamed it Wat Chaeng. The temple was then chosen to house the Emerald Buddha, a scared palladium of Thailand, when it was brought across from Vientiane, the capital city of what is now Laos. It now resides across the river in Wat Phra Kaew.

When Bangkok became the Thailand's new capital city, the temple was renamed again by Rama II, this time as Wat Arun. Rama II also began enlarging the central 镁谤补丑苍驳, which was then completed in 1842 under the reign of Rama III. Apart from some restoration work on the 镁谤补丑苍驳, which was completed in 2017, little else has changed at Wat Arun.

Tickets and other practicalities

Wat Arun is open daily from 8am-6pm and tickets cost 50B. The entrance is just off Th Arun Amarin and it鈥檚 located across the river from Wat Pho.

Many people visit Wat Arun on long-tail boat tours, but it鈥檚 dead easy to just use the Chao Phraya Express Boat, or jump on the cross-river ferry from Tien Pier (from 5am to 9pm).

Wat Arun Buddhist temple glowing in golden light at twilight in Bangkok, Thailand.
Wat Arun's 镁谤补丑苍驳 is, quite literally, unmissable. 漏Miki Studio/Shutterstock

What to see

The Spire

The central feature of Wat Arun is the 82m-high Khmer-style 镁谤补丑苍驳 (tower), constructed during the first half of the 19th century by Rama II (King Phraphutthaloetla Naphalai; r 1809鈥24). From the river it is not apparent that this corn-cob-shaped steeple is adorned with colorful floral murals made of glazed porcelain, a common temple ornamentation in the early Ratanakosin period, when Chinese ships calling at Bangkok used the stuff as ballast.

The Ordination Hall

The compound's primary 产貌丑迟 (ordination hall) contains a Buddha image that is said to have been designed by Rama II himself, as well as beautiful murals that depict Prince Siddhartha (the Buddha) encountering examples of birth, old age, sickness and death outside his palace walls, experiences that led him to abandon the worldly life.

The Grounds

In addition to the central spire and ordination hall, the Wat Arun compound includes two 飞铆路丑膬丑苍 (sanctuaries) and a h菕r 膽rai (depository for Buddhist scriptures), among other structures. Adjacent to the river are six 蝉膬丑路濒补丑 (often spelt as sala), open-air pavilions traditionally meant for relaxing or study, but increasingly used these days as docks for tourist boats.

Dress code

As Wat Arun is a Buddhist temple, visitors must wear culturally appropriate clothing to visit. This means trousers or long skirts and tops that cover your shoulders. It also means nothing see-through.

If you are flashing too much flesh, you'll have to rent a sarong from the shop at the entrance for 20B (and a 100B refundable deposit). Shoes will also need to be removed before entering some parts of the temple.

Bathed in golden light, Wat Arun sits against a pink sky at sunset in Bangkok, Thailand.
Wat Arun at sunset can be jaw-dropping. 漏Jirawas Teekayu/500px

Wat Arun at sunset

For our money, it's best to visit Wat Arun in the late afternoon, when the sun shines from the west, lighting up the spire and river behind it.

For sunset photos, however, some of the best views can be caught from across the river at the warehouses that line Th Maha Rat 鈥 although be forewarned that locals may ask for a 20B 鈥渇ee鈥.

The magic hour for snaps is when the temple lights are switched on at night (usually around 7pm), even as the sky retains some of the afterglow.

Nearby restaurants and bars

If you're visiting the temple during the day, consider a lunch break at Tonkin Annam, an excellent Vietnamese restaurant just across the river.

The Rooftop or Amorosa, rooftop bars located directly across from the temple, boast some wonderful views of Wat Aurn, which are great at sunset.

Nearby hotels

Strategically located on the river directly across from Wat Arun, Arun Residence is a multilevel wooden house with much more than just great views. The seven rooms here manage to feel both homey and stylish (the best are the top-floor, balcony-equipped suites). There are also inviting communal areas, including a library, rooftop bar and restaurant.

Else head to sleek, modernist Sala Ratanakosin. Its rooms have open-plan bathrooms and big windows looking out on the river and Wat Arun. They can't be described as vast, but will satisfy the fashion-conscious.


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