This may not be obvious, but mussels are as much a part of Odesa food culture as aubergine 'caviar' (cold vegetable stew). Furnished like a bar, with a row of seats facing an open kitchen, Kotelok is all about Black Sea mussels served with a variety of dips, including the quintessentially local mixture of paprika and brynza goat's cheese.
The non-maritime 'caviar' features in the list of delicious appetizers, along with forshmak (minced herring).