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Dramatically situated against the backdrop of the snowy mountains of the Sierra Nevada, Granada was the last Moorish stronghold in Spain, and remains one of ´¡²Ô»å²¹±ô³Ü³¦Ã­²¹â€™s most evocative and beautiful cities.

Today, signs of Granada’s Islamic past linger everywhere: in the horseshoe arches of its centuries-old buildings; in the presence of ³¦Ã¡°ù³¾±ð²Ô±ð²õ, Moorish-style houses with secluded gardens or orchards, and ³Ù±ð³Ù±ð°ùí²¹²õ (teahouses); in the atmosphere of the Albaicín, the historic Muslim quarter, and parts of Realejo. Granada’s most famous attraction is arguably the most impressive vestige of Moorish rule in all of Spain: the Alhambra, the fortress-palace of the Nazrid rulers, whose calligraphy-etched structures – sheer poetry in stone – are without peer in Europe.

Beyond its extraordinary Moorish architecture, the city that inspired the work of the great Spanish poet Federico García Lorca draws you in with its lively mix of tapas bars and restaurants that dot the streets of Centro and Realejo; cave dwellings and flamenco ±è±ðñ²¹²õ (clubs) of the barrio of Sacromonte; monumental churches and handsome stone buildings; the labyrinthine lanes of Albaicín; and the evocative street murals of Granada’s other famous son, El Niño de las Pinturas. All this – not to mention the gregarious nature of its locals – is likely to leave an indelible imprint.

When should I go to Granada? 

With the exception of July and August, when intense 40°C+ (104°F+) heat sends granadinos fleeing for the beaches of the Costa Tropical, Granada can (and should!) be visited year-round. Visiting outside Spain’s school vacation periods is invariably cheaper for budget travelers. May, September and October are ideal for sightseeing, with fewer crowds and mild temperatures.

There’s plenty of sunshine year-round, and crisp winter days give you the option of dashing up to the ski resort in the nearby Sierra Nevada for a day on the slopes. In February or March, you can catch some of Andalucia’s most impressive Semana Santa (Holy Week) processions, while late May and early June see the city celebrate its biggest annual party, with flamenco dancing, bullfighting, processions and parades.  

How much time should I spend in Granada? 

Since the city is relatively compact and walkable, you can see Granada’s highlights in a single weekend – though it’s well worth giving yourself a few days to explore properly and perhaps venture beyond the city’s boundaries.

If this is your first visit, give yourself at least half a day to explore the Alhambra properly, then lose yourself in the dog-leg alleyways of the hilly Albaicín neighborhood on the hill opposite, getting a different perspective on the Alhambra from its numerous viewpoints. On day two, spend a few hours wandering the narrow streets and leafy squares of Centro, taking in the cathedral, the royal crypt, the ornate Basílica de San Juan de Dios, the Archaeological Museum, the 11th-century Moorish baths and other attractions. Afterward, join a small-group food tour for a proper immersion in Granada’s gastronomy and culture, or perhaps take in a flamenco show in Sacromonte. If you have more time, consider using Granada as a base for hiking or skiing in the nearby Sierra Nevada, or venturing out to the villages of Fuente Vaqueros and Valderrubio, both of which feature museums dedicated to the illustrious Spanish poet Federico García Lorca.

Is it easy to get in and around Granada?

Granada is extremely walkable, with main attractions in the historic parts of the city – Centro, Alhambra hill, the hilly barrio of the Albaicín and buzzy Realejo – are within walking distance of one another. That said, public buses can be useful for uphill lifts to the Alhambra, the further reaches of Sacromonte and the Albaicín’s lofty viewpoints; the casual stroll downhill is less demanding. (Bear in mind the uneven street paving and maze-like, hilly lanes of the Albaicín). include C30, between Plaza Isabel II and Alhambra (via Realejo); C31, between Plaza Nueva and Albayzín; C34 between Plaza Nueva–Sacromonte; 4, between Gran Vía and the train station; and 33, between Gran Vía and the bus station.

Parking in the city center can induce sticker shock, with some lots charging up to €36 (US$37.50) per day. If driving to Granada, park instead at the underground parking lot (€6 / US$6.25 per day) by the tram stop Nuevo Los Cármenes, then ride the tram (€1.50 / US$1.56) in the direction of Albolote to reach the center. Granada’s international airport is 17km (10½ miles) west of the city. buses connect it to the city center roughly hourly between 6am and 10pm (25-40 minutes). From Granada’s train station – reachable from the city center by bus or tram – regular high-speed trains connect to Barcelona, Madrid, °äó°ù»å´Ç²ú²¹, Seville and Almeria. Further out, Granada’s bus station serves all major regional destinations.

Top things to do in Granada  

Explore the Alhambra

If you visit one place in Granada, make it the , the spectacular hilltop palace complex occupied by the Nazrid rulers in the city’s 13th- and 14th-century heyday. You’ll need at least half a day to do it justice, as the site’s attractions are spread out. Start with the Alcazaba, the original 13th-century citadel at the Alhambra’s tip, and scale the Torre de la Vela for fantastic views of the city. Save plenty of energy for your timed visit to the Palacios Nazaríes – the elegant palace compound that showcases the complexity of Moorish design – then proceed to the Generalife, the sultans’ summer residence, composed of pools, fountains and beautiful landscaped grounds. If you have the time, backtrack to the 16th-century Palace of Charles V, built after the Moors’ expulsion from Spain, and take in the absorbing collection of Moorish artifacts at the Museo de la Alhambra. Make a return visit after sunset to take in the all the magnificence by night.

Wander around the Albaicín

One of the oldest parts of Granada, the is a pleasure to explore on foot, its hilly serpentine lanes leading to whitewashed ³¦Ã¡°ù³¾±ð²Ô±ð²õ and lofty viewpoints. Parts of the Albaicín are well-trodden: the Moroccan-themed Calle Caldería Nueva is lined with baklava shops, ³Ù±ð³Ù±ð°ùí²¹²õ and souvenir shops, and a steady stream of visitors makes their way to the Mirador San Nicolás – a favorite viewpoint for contemplating the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada peaks beyond. Since it can get rather crowded, particularly at sunset, I’d head to the less-visited Mirador de la Cruz de Rauda or Mirador de San Cristóbal. The Albaicín’s underrated sights include the 15th-century Nasrid residence Palacio de Dar-al-Horra, which has original Moorish arches and patios; and the 16th-century Colegiata del Salvador, built atop a former mosque and featuring original aljibes (cisterns). The Plaza de San Miguel Bajo is an appealing spot for a drink.

Compare Granada’s most important churches

At some point during your wandering, you’re likely to find yourself outside Granada’s impressive Renaissance , designed by renowned architect Diego de Siloé and whose exterior is perhaps even more impressive than the airy, austere interior. Compare and contrast this simplicity of design with the , a few minutes’ walk away. Behold its extraordinary gold altarpiece and elaborate ceiling frescos, then take the Seville-tiled stairs behind the altar to see the bones and skull of a saint resting in a niche, surrounded by yet more gold. It’s well worth renting a VR headset in order to soar beneath the ceiling of the church.

Explore Sacromonte’s cave dwellings

Granada’s earliest human inhabitants lived in caves – and some continue to do so. Northeast of the Albaicín, urban bustle gives way to scrubland-covered hills, which are dotted with centuries-old caves. This is Sacromonte, traditionally a Roma neighborhood, now also populated by alternative and artistic types. Most caves are private dwellings off limits to visitors, but you can visit the Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte. In this cluster of typical cave houses, some of the chambers are decked out as bedrooms, while others are furnished in a traditional style, with farming tools and decades-old household utensils.

Attend a flamenco performance

While °äá»å¾±³ú, Jerez and Seville are the heartland of flamenco, Granada is still a fantastic place to catch a professional performance. features three shows nightly that showcase the classic flamenco elements: canto jondo (soulful lament), jaleo (complex clapping patterns), toque (improvised flamenco guitar) and dance. (I recommend catching the second show – when the dancers have warmed up but are not overly tired). In the or in Sacromonte – traditionally a Roma barrio – you can catch a unique manifestation of flamenco: zambra, a Moorish-Roma dance mélange that’s been incorporated into Roma wedding traditions.

Go on a tapas bar crawl

The old Andalucian custom of offering a free tapa with every drink is alive and well in Granada – and there are a number of ways to sample the city’s edible offerings, which range from Andalucian classics such as berenjenas con miel (aubergine with cane honey) and mini portions of rice dishes to fusion creations. Avoid the heavily touristed establishments around Plaza Nueva and Calle Navas, and instead head for the alleyways of Centro and Realejo to make your own discoveries. Some local favorites include Realejo’s (with over 500 Spanish wines), (superlative rice tapas) in the Albaicín, and old-school (fish and seafood bites) in Centro. Alternatively, consider taking a small-group tour with ; Gayle and her knowledgeable guides get you off the beaten track and can combine food and street art, or focus on craft beer, market visits and wine tastings.

Commune with the spirit of Federico García Lorca  

If you’ve ever read and been profoundly moved by Romancero gitano (Gypsy Ballads) or Bodas de sangre (Blood Wedding) by one of Spain’s greatest poets, Federico García Lorca, yet don’t have time to visit his childhood home in the village of Fuente Vaqueros, it’s well worth stopping by the Huerta de San Vicente. The Lorca family’s intimate summer house features the poet’s simple bedroom and various personal effects. Book ahead for timed guided visits in Spanish or English.

My favorite thing to do in Granada

Whenever I’m in Granada, I try to squeeze in a night visit to the Alhambra. During my first visit to the Palacios Nazaríes as a young backpacker many years ago, I was blown away by the beauty of this centuries-old palace complex, and find that it’s even more striking at night, when the tile, stucco and carved-wood façade of the Palacio de Comares; the achingly delicate Arabic calligraphy carved into chamber walls; and the domed marquetry ceiling of the striking Salón de los Embajadores are subtly illuminated. After securing my timed slot for the Palacios Nazaríes, I get there early so that I’m first in line, then move relatively quickly through the chambers so that I can enjoy the fountain and the marble lions of the Patio de los Leones and starlight reflected in the pool of the Jardines del Partal without anyone else present.

I then amble down the hill from the Alhambra – and, because I’m a creature of habit, make my way along narrow streets southwest of the cathedral to the low-key , my favorite tapas bar for over 15 years. It’s run by a British-Angolan couple and attracts a good mix of locals, students and transients like myself. The free tapas you chose with your drink include spectacular spicy chicken livers, as well as Brazilian feijoada, chickpea stew and other dishes inspired by the owners’ travels.

How much money do I need for Granada?

Costs in Granada can be higher than in some other parts of ´¡²Ô»å²¹±ô³Ü³¦Ã­²¹ – which, given its popularity, is unsurprising. Accommodation prices in particular fluctuate considerably depending on the season, yet you’ll find options for every budget, from hostels and budget hotels to boutique hotels in centuries-old buildings and four-star luxury in the heart of the Alhambra. Dining options also range from super affordable to splurge-worthy – so much depends on whether you plan to haunt tapas bars or eat at Granada’s fine-dining establishments.

• Hotel room: €70–100 (US$74–106) per night

• Basic room for two in a hostel: €50–60 (US$53–64) per night

• Self-catering apartment for two (including Airbnb): €55–90 (US$58–96) per night 

• Alhambra entry ticket: €19 (US$20)

• Tram ticket: €1.50 (US$1.56) 

• Coffee: €1.80 (US$1.90) 

• Tapa: €3–5 (US$3.18-5.31) 

• Dinner for two: €40–80 (US$42–85) 

• Glass of wine: €3.50–5  (US$3.70-5.30) 

Book your visit to the Alhambra well in advance

Entry tickets to the Alhambra are limited and sell out weeks in advance, so you should plan on buying yours well ahead of your visit on the . You’ll have multiple options to choose from, including night visits to the Palacios Nazaríes. The Alhambra general ticket covers all the main parts of the Alhambra, including a day visit to the Palacios Nazaríes (you have to pick your timed visit slot online). Since daytime visits are often too hot, night visits in the summer months are particularly in demand, so plan (well) ahead accordingly.