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Twenty years ago, the New Nordic Food Manifesto kicked off the idea of local and sustainable dining. Experimental fine-dining chefs came to Copenhagen in their droves.

Today, the capital of Denmark is a serious foodie city 鈥 that鈥檚 why I love working as a food and travel writer here 鈥 But its diverse scene owes everything to those culinary pioneers.

feels less fresh and surprising these days, but there is still a lot to revel in: a riot of Italian restaurants; new neon-lit Asian eateries; an ever-experimental bakery scene to name but a few. Fine dining is still good for a splurge 鈥 Geranium, noma (which closes its doors in winter 2024), and Kong Hans K忙lder are just four of the world鈥檚 most highly-starred, highly-rated places to eat 鈥 but there鈥檚 also plenty to find if you don鈥檛 have a rich uncle鈥檚 credit card at your disposal.

Here鈥檚 where I eat in Copenhagen with my friends.

Left image shows a close-up of a lemon cream bun split in half. Right image shows a selection of pastries spread on a table in Juno the Bakery
L: A spread of pastries laid out at Juno. R: Lemon cream bun, split at the middle and oozing goodness at Juno the Bakery 漏 Juno the Bakery

Breakfast

I get excited about the trends in Copenhagen鈥檚 bakery scene, especially in spring. In the run-up to Lent, they go all out to create the most extravagant Shrovetide buns 鈥 fastelavnsboller 鈥 mixing all kinds of traditional and modern techniques. I鈥檒l queue down the street in the rain to get hold of the pillowy cakes at in particular.

Another recent bakery trend has been the humble cheese roll. Bakeries have been competing to create the best bun, the best whipped butter and the best cheese to pair it with. It sounds simple 鈥 but doing simple well is complicated! Swing by for a cheese roll. Their Holmen location is the best, though they have a series of outposts all over the city. The bakery, part-owned by noma, sells the best sourdough bread in the city.

L: A plate of fresh Danish open sandwiches lie ready at the pass in Cadence. R: A spread of brunch dishes laid out near a window seat in Union City Kitchen
L: Brunch sandwiches ready at the pass at Cadence 漏 Daniel Rasmussen R: A selection of brunch dishes at Union City Kitchen 漏 Union City Kitchen

Brunch

Brunch is huge in Copenhagen. It鈥檚 so popular that if you don't book in advance you can struggle to get a table. The traditional Danish brunch plate is a tapas-like selection of bites including potato salad, mini sausages, eggs, Danish cheeses, croissants, berries, and delicious bread. One of my favorite fresh takes on it is at Union Kitchen, with avocado and feta, rye bread, Greek yogurt, waffles, and smoked salmon sharing the plate. You鈥檒l also find vegetarian options, friendly servers and day-long dining options.

At the edge of the city鈥檚 new Carlsberg area, also serves a great brunch in a bright space where the eggs benedict come piled high on a tall English breakfast muffin. Its drinks menu features smoothies, bone broths and golden lattes, too. Afterward, wander up the hill to discover the part of the city built by the Carlsberg family. There鈥檚 also a new beer museum, the , which also touches on their history.

Left image shows a woman pouring a coffee at an outdoor table. Right image shows a woman walking into the green door of Coffee Collective
Coffee is served at Coffee Collective 漏 Alona Vibe (L) / Chris Tonnensen (R)

Coffee

I like to get out and see the city and hear what鈥檚 going on, so I hold coffee meetings nearly every day of the week. I鈥檓 a regular at , just down the street from my office. They have great coffee and fun staff. I also like the sleek Danish chain Coffee Collective. There鈥檚 a branch at the revived food market Torvehallerne where you can sit and sip coffee while watching people. I like to browse the food stalls and flower market, too.

The left image shows a young woman tucking into a Danish open sandwich. The right image shows a close-up of a herring dish at Selma
L: Fresh sm酶rrebr酶d at Apotek 57 R: Faroe Islands salmon at Selma 漏 Daniel Rasmussen / Selma

Lunch

I am most regularly found having meetings in Apollo Bar during the day 鈥 it鈥檚 attached to Kunsthal Charlottenburg in the most touristed part of town, Nyhavn, but you wouldn鈥檛 know it when you鈥檙e in its quiet courtyard. I recommend the banana bread.

Across the street from Torvehallerne, you should try a sm酶rrebr酶d from Selma. They do modern takes on Denmark鈥檚 traditional open-faced sandwich, which usually has rye bread piled high with a variety of toppings. If you鈥檙e going all out, order the herring and add a shot of snaps (aquavit), though my favorite dish is their Faroese smoked salmon with zesty yuzu.

Alternatively, jump on a bike like a local and cycle to, an airy and elevated cafe housed in the chic Frama store. Run by chef, it serves delicious pasta, bread, quiche and seasonal vegetable-led dishes. It鈥檚 also only a short stroll from Rosenborg Castle or the Marble Church should you fancy walking off your lunch afterward.

L: A spread of Japanese dishes at Jah Izakaya R: A close-up of a dish at Kappo Ando
L: A selection of dishes at Jah Izakaya 漏 Chris Tonnesen R: Dishes that look almost too pretty to eat at Kappo And艒 漏 Ditte Isager

Dinner

Always book ahead for dinner. Seriously. This is not a city where you can just walk into a restaurant 鈥 you need to secure a spot a week or so beforehand. I love to eat with my friends at , a Japanese pub with the best carpaccio I鈥檝e ever tasted. It鈥檚 supposed to be a sharing plate but I always get one just for myself. I also like , a cool Tokyo-styled bar where Japanese food is cooked in front of your eyes.

If you want to eat at one of the Michelin-starred restaurants like Alchemist, you鈥檒l need to book months or even years in advance. Or鈥 you could just go to . The theme park in the heart of Copenhagen hosts a pop-up restaurant several times a year with Michelin-starred chefs, at unbelievable rates. Keep an eye on its website to see what鈥檚 coming up. You can then finish off your night with a ride on one of the world鈥檚 oldest rollercoasters.

If you鈥檙e looking for more great-value food, and can point you in the right direction for pop-ups and unique 鈥渙ne night only鈥 experiences.

Left image shows a barman pouring a cocktail behind a bar. Right image shows the same barman walking through the dimly-lit interior or Rudy's cocktail bar
Ruby is one of Copenhagen's oldest bars 漏 Daniel Rasmussen

Bar

It鈥檚 also normal to book a table if you鈥檙e going out in Copenhagen to drink 鈥 some of the bars are small and it鈥檚 great to have somewhere to sit. If you love natural wine (or any wine), canalside Ved Stranden 10 in the heart of the city has an excellent choice and a friendly sommelier team. With walls of bottles, scrubbed pine floors and tables spilling out onto the street in the summer, it鈥檚 perfect for a group of friends on a long warm night.

When it鈥檚 time to move on, walk along the waterfront to Ruby, one of Copenhagen鈥檚 oldest bars. The two-floor townhouse cocktail bar pulls off the ultimate bar vibe for me: it鈥檚 sophisticated and stylish with charismatic bar staff but still welcoming and relaxed. Cocktails made from banana peel and Danish whisky are among the options on their ever-changing, seasonal menu. The Bartender's Choice Awards nominated their signature 鈥淲hisky for Breakfast鈥 as one of Denmark's best cocktails this year. When I last went, I fell for its non-alcoholic version (鈥淣o whisky for breakfast鈥), which had all the serious, sexy vibe of an alcoholic cocktail without the hangover.

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